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Steller
Watch: A Year in the Life of a Sea Lion
From
September 2004 to September 2005, AquaNews brings you news
from the remote South West Brothers Island in Alaska, where
a small but intrepid group of scientists is studying populations
of Steller sea lions.
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Alaskan
populations of Steller sea lions have plummeted some
85% in the last 30 years, and a consortium
of North American universities is working to find
out why. Steller sea lion researcher Michelle Marcotte
is in charge of a study that will observe a wild population
of Steller sea lions for one year. Check this page frequently
for monthly updates from Michelle and her colleagues
on their experiences as field researchers in Alaska.
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Beyond South West Brothers Island
October 11 , 2005
By
Michelle Marcotte, Steller Sea Lion Researcher
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For a year, South West Brothers Island was home to an adventurous team of researchers.
Photo: Michelle Marcotte |
I'm back in Vancouver and facing the product of 13 months of field research: millions of carefully recorded letters and numbers that (I hope) will shed light on my study. At the heart of my Master's thesis is a single, complex question: what are the seasonal and daily activity levels and haulout patterns of the Steller sea lions at Southwest Brothers Island?
To answer part of this question, I'm using information from the island's weather station to determine whether environmental factors such as air temperature, heat index and wind speed affect the number of animals that haul out on shore.
Sea lions spend a lot of time foraging at sea and traveling between sites, but they come ashore to rest, give birth, and socialize. While ocean temperature is fairly constant year-round, the weather conditions on land can be highly variable in southeast Alaska. The challenge for most pinniped species (seals & sea lions) is to conserve body heat in the water and disperse it on land.
During winter storms and other extreme weather, sea lions may benefit more from foraging in the water rather than being exposed to the elements on land. This was often the case in the winter: when thick ice covered the haulout, the only animals we saw hauled out were usually nursing females with their young (Steller pups do not suckle in the water, so in order to receive mom's milk they may be forced to brave adverse weather).
Finding Meaning in Weaning
Another element of my study involved analyzing how and when young sea lions are weaned from their mother's milk. It also involves studying the frequency of late-term abortions by nursing females. This is a complicated subject that may hold an important clue to understanding why sea lions have declined in other parts of Alaska. Our observations revealed two interesting trends: a high number of 1-2 year-olds that continued to suckle, and a high number of late-term abortions.
Under normal circumstances, a female sea lion nurses a pup for a year, after which time the pup is weaned and learns to catch fish while the mother gives birth to a new pup. But if the number of prey fish decreases during this critical transition time, the weaned pup faces "nutritional stress" and its chance of survival drops.
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A sea lion basks in the sun atop the South West Brothers haulout.
Photo: Michelle Marcotte |
Instead of having a new pup every year, which may face nutritional stress at the time of weaning, another reproductive strategy may be to have fewer, healthier pups. Nursing a pup for longer than a year may reduce the effects of nutritional stress on the juvenile and increase its chances of surviving to sexual maturity (this, in turn, might help to increase the reproductive "fitness" of the entire population). But because a female can't support two pups at once, the body may decide to spontaneously abort the fetus in order to continue nursing the year-old pup, which has a higher chance of survival.
Thus, a high proportion of Steller sea lions in southeast Alaska may be giving birth every other year, rather than annually as previously thought. Such a reduction in birth rates could significantly curtail population growth: if females are giving birth every second or third year, the population numbers will grow slower but the young animals may be healthier at independence.
I will present some of these results at the Society for Marine Mammalogy conference in San Diego in December. By spring 2006, I aim to be finished my thesis and will begin publishing the results in peer-reviewed journals. This information will then be added to the growing body of knowledge about Steller sea lions and general pinniped behaviour.
Understanding the Big Picture
Behaviour is the link between an organism and its environment - it is a tool by which animals adapt to a changing world - and I feel fortunate to have had the opportunity to spend so much time in the field watching Stellers in their natural environment. Thirteen and-a-half months on a remote island in southeast Alaska may seem a daunting task, but field research is always a combination of planning, cooperation and luck, especially when faced with remote locations and harsh environments. I was extremely fortunate to have a fantastic field crew, excellent logistical support and academic supervision from the University of British Columbia, and encouragement from my friends and family.
I would like to thank Pamela Rosenbaum (logistical coordinator); Andrew Trites (supervisor); Morgan Davies, Brooke Campbell, Jennifer Provencher, and Joshua Biro (field crew); Marina Winterbottom (data entry) and the many other people who have given support along the way, especially my best friend, Aerin Jacob.
I hope this "Steller Watch" series has helped to inspire interest not only in the Steller sea lion, but also the many other species and ecosystems on our planet. Alaska's marine ecosystem is one of the few healthy marine ecosystems left on Earth, and by understanding the health of large marine mammals like Steller sea lions, we hope to gain insights into the health of the system as a whole. This will help us to achieve and maintain a healthy balance between ecosystem health and human interest, which can only benefit present and future generations.
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Photo: Michelle Marcotte
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The Adventure Comes to an End
October 3 , 2005
By
Morgan Davies, Steller Sea Lion Researcher
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Morgan tears down the blind that sheltered the team during their year-long observations at the haul-out.
Photo: Josh Biro |
My final tour of duty on South West Brothers Island was my shortest, ironically, but it was busy. My return at the beginning of July marked the first time the on-island Steller Watch team had been composed of two males, and Josh's enthusiastic nature made the final month of the project a pleasure. We arrived back in Vancouver in early August after ending our data collection and breaking down camp.
I have explained previously that the Steller Watch project might be extended, depending on whether the sea lions moved in August from the main haulout to the beaches on the North and West sides of the island. They did last year, and we wondered whether this was a chance occurrence. If they remained at the main haulout this August, our team would have reached its goal of collecting a year of continuous data from one location. But if they moved, it would have supported the theory that this mid-summer, trans-island movement occurs naturally.
Well, they moved: several sea lions hauled out onto the West Beach around the 20th of July, sparking a mass movement to the island's North and West beaches. By the time we left on August 6, there were 500-600 sea lions hauling out primarily on the North end beach, and only about 50 stragglers left at the main haulout.
The sea lion migration prompted us to start breaking down camp and moving off the island. We dismantled our beloved cabin piece by piece and transported it via boat back to Juneau, where it and our research blind would be used by Alaska Department of Fish and Game for future research. We actually had to sleep in tents for the final couple of nights on the island, which was a shock considering we had been living in the relative comfort of our "Steller Palace" for the past year!
No Time for Goodbye
We spent our final hours meticulously combing over the areas on the island we had used during our time there; it was important to leave everything as close to its natural state as when we first arrived in July 2004. Our presence wrought no permanent damage to the island, and the former locations of our cabin and blind will soon be covered in the thick vegetation. The only items we left behind were two digital cameras mounted in their protective boxes: property of the Alaska Fisheries Development Foundation that take hourly photographs of the main haul-out.
In the flurry of excitement during our last few days, it was difficult to fully appreciate that our time on the island was up. I'm only now realizing that I won't be heading back out to 'our' island again, and it makes me a little sad. This sadness, however, is countered by the overwhelming feeling of accomplishment at this once-in-a-lifetime experience. I learned not only about the behaviour of Steller sea lions but also how to prepare for and conduct extended field studies. And I developed many lasting relationships with my fellow researchers, who made Steller Watch such a rewarding experience. Thanks Michelle, Brooke, Jenn and Josh!
I'm very happy to have been able to share some of my stories and experiences through these articles. I hope we were able to convey what it was like to be out there on South West Brothers Island, studying those loud but loveable Steller sea lions.
Morgan Davies
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Leaving South West Brothers Island.
Photo: Morgan Davies |
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A
New Team Member
August
16, 2005
By
Josh Biro, Steller Sea Lion Researcher
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| A
local yacht cruises by the busy haulout on South
West Brothers Island.
Photo:
Josh Biro |
My
name is Josh Biro, and I'm the newest member of the Steller
Watch team. I have spent much of my life fishing and camping
in remote areas of British Columbia, so this isn't a big leap
from what I'm used to, but it has been a rare treat to observe
the local sea lions both on land and in the water.
This
is my first trip to Alaska and I'm loving every minute of
it. I know I'm not alone in my love for this area because
numerous tour boats visit the haulout almost every day. A
few curious kayakers have come ashore to have a look around,
and they are always surprised to see us here because our camp
and blind are so well hidden. Visitors always seem very interested
in the story of the Steller sea lion and in our research.
The
Southeast Alaskan coast is very similar to that of British
Columbia, except that there is wildlife here in literally
every direction. I'm amazed by the diversity of plant and
animal life: In the morning I can observe sea lion antics
from behind the research blind, and in the afternoon I can
watch bubble-feeding humpback whales just 40 feet from shore!
I
have had a great first month here on the island, and I’m
looking forward to spending the next five weeks with Morgan.
It's the first time in this project that two guys will be
on the island at the same time (don't worry, Michelle, we
won't get into too much trouble!).
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Random
Acts of Kindness
August
5 , 2005
By
Michelle Marcotte, Steller Sea Lion Researcher
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| New
arrivals: Two oystercatcher chicks emerge from their
speckled eggs, camouflaged to blend into their surroundings.
Photo:
Josh Biro |
This
month has brought more sunshine and a new researcher, Josh
Biro. It was strange to meet him for the first time and then
move into an 8x12' space with him five minutes later! Fortunately,
Josh is keen to be here and brings with him a passion for
marine life and the guitar.
The
two Black Oystercatcher eggs that we have been monitoring
have hatched, and two fluffy chicks with the same colouring
as the eggs have emerged. We have also heard peeps from the
nearby bald eagle nest.
The
sea lions are doing well, but we have noticed fewer suckling
juveniles and more injured animals. We have seen a lot of
battle scars on the SAMs (sub-adult males) and the large bulls,
who are acting more territorial now.
Unfortunately,
the lone pup we observed on the local haulout last month has
disappeared. We watched it for a week as it lay near its mother,
but it didn’t appear to suckle at all. Its bones became
more distinct and it seemed quite weak.
When
the mother finally went on her first foraging trip, the pup
was left alone near the bottom of the haulout. As I watched
the tide rise, I knew it wouldn’t be able to climb the
steep slope without help, but the other females just tossed
it aside when it got in their way. The next day, it was nowhere
to be seen. Sometimes pups are 'accidentally' born outside
of rookeries, but they often don't survive.
The
weather has been mostly sunny and one day, temperatures even
climbed to a balmy 20 degrees Celsius (68 degrees Fahrenheit)!
The heat is good for working on a tan, but bad for keeping
perishable foods. During the winter months, the outdoors acted
like a giant refrigerator and food lasted for a long time.
Now, however, the blocks of ice melt within the first few
days, and meat and dairy have become increasingly risky to
keep. By the third week into the trip, we were forced to get
creative with canned veggies and instant soups…
After
subsisting on these meager rations, imagine our surprise when
two locals from Juneau came ashore the other day for a visit,
having reading our story on AquaNews. They had been out fishing,
and gave us huge fillets of fresh halibut and a bag of large
prawns that they were using as bait. As if that wasn't enough,
they brought us a cooler full of salad, vegetables, fruit,
chocolate, and beer!
To
show our appreciation for their random act of kindness we
built a campfire and cooked up a great feast. Who says we
can't enjoy a few luxuries in the field?
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New
Arrivals
July
7, 2005
By
Morgan Davies, Steller Sea Lion Researcher
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| A
passing cruise ship provides a surreal backdrop for
the hauled-out sea lions - and the resident researchers
- of South West Brothers Island.
Photo:
Michelle Marcotte |
The
sun is shining, the skies are blue, and the sea lions are
currently hauled out on South West Brothers Island. We are
in the early stages of the sea lion breeding season, and while
most mating and births occur on special sites called rookeries,
it is not uncommon to see them on other haulouts. We haven't
observed any mating yet on our local haulout, but we have
noticed an increased presence of large bulls and sub-adult
males (SAMs) over the past month and a corresponding increase
in aggressiveness between each other and toward the females.
Michelle
observed the island's first pup of the year – a round
mound of dark brown fur – on June 4 (ironically, this
was the very same day we chose to begin classifying last year's
pups as juveniles, the term for 1-4 year-olds). Newborn
pups and their mothers usually stay on the rookery for several
weeks or longer after birth, in order to build up their strength
before attempting to journey to haulouts. This led us to believe
the pup Michelle spotted was born here.
Now
that the sea lions have returned after their lengthy spring
absence, we have resumed observing the relationship between
them and the local bald eagles. I recently observed an adult
bald eagle returning from the open water with a fish in its
talons. It actually landed in an unoccupied area of the haulout
and began feeding on the fish. While this might have caused
a commotion several months ago, neither the sea lions nor
the eagle seemed too concerned with each other on this occasion.
If I were to speculate, I would say that the combination of
readily available food sources and the decreased probability
of female sea lions aborting on the haulout might have something
to do with it; many pregnant females are either at or en route
to rookeries to give birth. Whatever the case, it seems that
the sea lions have been granted a temporary reprieve from
the eagles' aerial assaults.
Boat
Traffic
With
summer just around the corner, the number of tour operations
and private boats coming to view the sea lions has risen considerably.
Most boats are conscious of the fact they're around wild animals
and keep a reasonable distance. We've even had a cruise ship
pass by the haulout, which provided a surreal contrast between
the nearby sea lions lazing on the rocks and the huge, white
floating city behind them.
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| Careless
use of flashers and packing straps (top left) while
fishing can have deadly consequences for sea lions (below
left, right).
Photos:
Morgan Davies |
Not
all the boats navigating the waters around the island are
out on tourist excursions. In fact, many are either recreational
or commercial fishing vessels. It is unfortunate that Steller
sea lions find baited hooks and other fishing paraphernalia
so irresistible: we have suddenly seen an increased number
of animals with 'flashers' hanging from their mouths, indicating
they have swallowed a hook and line, while the mouths of others
are pierced with halibut hooks. One of the most unpleasant
sights is finding all types of sea lions – from pups
to adult males – with nylon packing straps looped around
their necks. These straps are typically used to hold the lids
on bait boxes or to tie together several boxes, and they often
find their way into the water. Once looped around an animal's
neck, the unforgiving nylon slowly cuts into the flesh as
the animal grows, until it can eventually no longer eat or
breathe. The ensuing death is anything but quick, and to helplessly
watch a subdued and emaciated animal in this obviously painful
condition is heart wrenching.
I'm
happy to report that the Steller Watch project has been extended
a couple of months beyond its original end date of mid-July.
Staying on the island until late August or early September
will allow us to determine whether the movement of the sea
lions we observed last August from the main haulout to the
island's northern and western reaches was a chance occurrence.
If the animals remain at the main haulout this August, then
we will have reached our goal of collecting a year's worth
of continuous data from one location. But if they move, we
will have collected further evidence that supports the idea
that this mid-summer, trans-island movement occurs annually.
Either scenario will provide us with valuable new information.
Until
next time,
Morgan
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A
Close Shave The
other day, I spotted a newborn pup pressed against its
mother along a ledge on the haulout while a large bull
male lazed about five feet above. Everything was quiet
until the bull decided he wanted to cool off: once he
began moving toward the water there wasn't much in the
way to slow him down.
After
some insistent noises the mother moved her precious
offspring to higher ground and out of harm's way, but
once they had reached apparent safety she released the
limp pup from her mouth—only to have it lose its
balance and tumble 15 feet back down into the water!
As I watched the action through the spotting scope my
cheering turned to a horrified gasp, but before I had
taken my next breath the mother's maternal instincts
kicked in and she leapt into the water to rescue her
pup. With pup safely in mouth, she swam to a low point
on the haulout and carried her offspring to safety.
- M.D. |
Top
My
Island Home
July
4, 2005
By
Michelle Marcotte, Steller Sea Lion Researcher
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| South
West Brothers Island is overrun with wildflowers and
other vegation - a welcome change after a long and dark
Alaskan winter.
Photo:
Michelle Marcotte |
It's
amazing how familiar South West Brothers Island has become
to me, even though I have only spent a total of five months
here. I just returned from a three-month research phase in
Vancouver, but the second I set foot on the island and smelled
the air I knew I was home.
Spring
is in full swing up here, and everything is green and growing.
On a clear, sunny day it can be Paradise here—such a
drastic contrast from the dark, bleak winter we shivered through
a few months ago! We have dozens of species of wild flowers,
including many colourful alpine varieties ranging from Blue
Lupine, Pink Shooting Star, and Yellow Buttercup to Red Indian
Paintbrush and Red Columbine. The animals are feeling the
pull of spring and are busy courting, building nests and establishing
territory. The other day, while Morgan and I were out exploring,
we nearly stumbled upon an Oystercatcher nest containing two
grey eggs with black speckles. The pair of normally chatty
birds guarding the nest fell silent as they watched us carefully
inspect their home.
Of
course, the local sea lions are also busy matchmaking. The
bulls and SAMs (sub-adult males) have been fighting, wrestling,
and growling at each other. The females are displaying affection
with vicious bites to the bulls' enormous necks. We are watching
a year-round haulout, which means pups aren't usually born
here (all the pregnant females go to other sites known as
rookeries), but we got a great surprise the other
day when we noticed a newborn pup! Its mother was hauling
it around by the scruff of the neck and being very defensive:
like most newborns, he was still quite wobbly on land.
The
humpbacks whales have returned from spending the winter in
Mexico, where they give birth in tropical waters, and they
have been swimming past the island nearly every day. Yesterday,
when a group of them came quite close to the haulout, the
juvenile sea lions in the water began porpoising and diving
with them.
Morgan
and I have been enjoying the unusually sunny weather and extended
daylight hours (sunrise at 4 a.m., sunset at 9:45 p.m.). There
have only been a couple of downpours this month, so our rain
barrels are looking a little dry. But we can't complain; as
we toss the frisbee around on the beach after work, the only
thing missing is a cooler of cold drinks! Hope you're all
enjoying the start of summer in 'civilization.'
Until
next month,
Michelle
Marcotte
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| Black
Oystercatchers (left) lay eggs in ground-level nests
lined with rocks. The colour of the eggs (right) camouflages
them and keeps them safe from predators.
Photos:
Andrew Trites/ Morgan Davies |
Top
Return
of the Sea Lions
June
3, 2005
By
Brooke Campbell, Steller Sea Lion Researcher
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| Male
Steller sea lions compete for mates after returning
to their haulout on South West Brothers, just in time
for the mating season.
Photo:
Morgan Davies |
For
the past month we have been busily counting sea lions, observing
their behaviour, and recording and photographing identification
brands on roughly 100 to 300 animals. Life on the haulout
is almost always lively and entertaining, but as the mating
season approaches we have noticed the generally slothful bulls
becoming more aggressive and the younger animals playfighting
more.
Humpback
whales have also returned to the area—we can hear their
deep exhalations as they travel past the island. We have taken
dozens of new photos of their distinctive dorsal fins and
the occasional tail fluke. Against the majestic backdrop of
Fredrick Sound and the snow-capped mountains of Admiralty
Island, the whales add that extra bit of beauty to our already
spectacular sunsets.
Southwest
Brothers Island is fully decked out in spring finery and littered
with wildflowers. The forest looks like a jungle of Devil's
Club, False-Lily-of-the-Valley and various ferns and shrubs.
The conifer trees are full of pollen cones, and when the resident
Bald Eagles land in the treetops they send great clouds of
yellow pollen into the wind and onto the rocks below. Not
so terrific for my allergies, but I can't complain too loudly
about sneezing in a place as beautiful as this.
Camp
life is a regular routine of cooking, cleaning, and keeping
all the equipment in working order. The sparrows have become
quite brazen around the cabin; after discovering one in the
porridge pot one morning we now keep our dishes overturned
outside until they can be washed. The elusive
biting creatures in my sleeping bag, which I more than
suspect are spiders, ensure that my legs are never bite-free.
At last count I have 12 bites on my legs while Morgan has
yet to receive a single one—he is understandably unapologetic
about the situation.
I
am leaving tomorrow and will spend this afternoon copying
photos and data to CD, double-checking our data sheets, tidying
the cabin, and packing. I have enjoyed my time here as always,
but I look forward to seeing my family again. Writing these
updates for Aquanews was fun, but this may be my last.
Cheers!
Brooke
Campbell
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| The
flora and fauna of South West Brothers Island: Humpback
whales migrate through the waters of Frederick Sound
while Fairyslipper (Calypso bulbosa) quietly
blooms in the forest.
Photos:
Brooke Campbell |
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The
Mysterious Movements of Sea Lions
May
30, 2005
By Morgan Davies, Steller Sea Lion Researcher
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| The
moon rises over Frederick Sound, illuminating the distinct
absence of sea lions on South West Brothers Island.
Photo:
Morgan Davies |
After a month off, I arrived back on the island
to an empty haulout. According to Brooke, the sea lions had
vacated the island near the end of March and only made brief
appearances throughout the month of April. But since they
continued to haul out at two other locations around the island,
we could still visually locate them and conduct modified ‘counts.’
The first site, approximately 1.5 kilometres west into Frederick
sound, was on the shores of a tiny island (even smaller than
ours!) we dubbed Beacon Rock. The other haulout was on the
south point of West Brothers Island, approximately 500 metres
directly across from our Cabin beach.
On several days we didn’t see or hear
a single sea lion, even at their interim locations, but we
often saw individuals or small groups swim past our local,
temporarily abandoned haulout. They would make questioning
vocalizations as they passed, extending their necks in an
effort to spot any of their kin on the haulout.
Obviously, there wasn’t much we could
do in this situation. There were no overt reasons why the
sea lions had left or why they stayed away. Nevertheless,
we continued our study, and the many zeroes on April’s
data sheets are still important information that wouldn’t
have otherwise been collected. They may yet provide additional
clues to the numerous mysteries of Steller sea lions.
One morning, I ventured onto the abandoned haulout
to investigate whether a dead animal or other debris might
be spooking the sea lions and keeping them away. I carefully
explored the rocky nooks and crannies to better understand
the terrain these animals negotiate while hauled out of their
natural element. As luck would have it, I found a backpack
computer unit that the Alaska Department of Fish and Game
(ADF&G) mounts on some sea lions as part of their monitoring
studies. It was wedged between two boulders and had obviously
been there for a long time. Little did I know just how long;
when I reported my find to our headquarters I learned the
unit was at least six years old! I’m sending it back
to ADF&G (minus most of the barnacles) and hopefully it
will provide some useful information about the animal it was
attached to.
Thankfully, the sea lions returned in full force
during the last weekend of April and have since maintained
a strong presence.
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| Dinner
on the claw: Morgan displays two dungeness crabs, a
donation toward dinner from a passing government research
vessel.
Photo:
Brooke Campbell |
Creature Comforts
Last night, we were lucky enough to be visited
by the passing ADF&G boat, the Kestrel. They
were on their way north to Hobart Bay to continue their herring
surveys for Southeast Alaska, and they gave us a call on the
radio to offer showers and a 'care package.' I don’t
think Brooke or myself have moved so fast in a long time!
An hour later we were back on our island, fresh
and clean, with ice cream in our bellies, a box of fresh fruit,
and three dungeness crabs for our evening meal. We fell asleep
with smiles on our faces. The crew of the Kestrel
also kindly allowed us to fill up our fresh water supply,
which had become very low due to the dry weather. As usual,
the warm hospitality and generous nature of our friends at
ADF&G provided yet another fond memory here on South West
Brothers—thanks, guys!
Brooke is returning to the city tomorrow, and
the sea lions and I will warmly welcome the return of our
fearless leader, Michelle. I guess I better clean up the place!
Morgan Davies
Top
The
Wandering Life of a West Coast Onion
May
3, 2005
By
Jennifer Provencher, Steller Sea Lion Researcher
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| Most
people never stop to consider that the onion they are
eating may be better traveled than they are!
Photo:
Damon Hart-Davis/
DHD
Multimedia Gallery |
For
most people, the life of an onion contains little excitement.
Many of us eat onions that have traveled only a few hundred
kilometres from their birthplace; homegrown onions may only
travel 25 meters from the garden to the dinner table. Unlike
these vegetables, however, the onions we eat here on South
West Brothers Island have a much longer and more interesting
story. You might say our island's onions are as intrepid as
its researchers.
Our
onions first take root in California. When an onion has matured
enough for the trip, it is plucked from the earth and starts
its migration. It first travels north along the California
coast by road, eventually feeling the curving roads of Oregon
and Washington State beneath the tires of its carriage.
But
the real journey begins from Seattle, as the onions and countless
other food items are loaded onto 'floating cities' heading
north. This is how Juneau, the capital of Alaska, feeds her
people: she is dependent on her southern cousins living across
an international border. Produce, baking goods, cereals, breads,
spices, laundry soap, mops, shoes, clothing, and other essentials
travel to Juneau along the Inside Passage.
The
Inside Passage is the longest stretch of protected waterways
in the world. It begins along Seattle's Puget Sound and into
the Canadian waters of the Strait of Georgia. It then follows
the East Coast of Vancouver Island until Queen Charlotte Sound,
where it leaves the sheltered coast for the vast openness
of the Pacific Ocean. Further north, it passes the Queen Charlotte
Islands, or Haida Gwaii, a land of rich cultural history.
Once past these islands, the ships and their cargo re-enter
American waters and continue northward through Dixon Entrance
toward the Southeast Alaskan archipelago. Onion-bearing ships
pass by Clarence Strait, Chatham Strait, Stephens Passage,
Frederick Sound and Summer Strait along the route to their
final destination: Juneau.
| The
Inside Passage |
Captain
Vancouver traveled this passage to put an end to rumors
of a Northern Passage above the Canadian colonies. He
spread the names of his crew and the high English nobility
along the way, hence names such as Seymour Narrows and
Johnstone Strait. Mount Baker was named after the sailor
who spotted it.
Captain
Vancouver named some places after his moods, such as
Desolation Sound. It was along these waterways that
he held off a mutiny by sheer will and a rigid schedule.
Unfortunately
for him, a few Spanish ships were already here when
he arrived, which is where names such as Juan de Fuca
Strait originate. |
The
days are noticeably shorter and the nights are colder in Juneau.
Our layered friend finds itself in the produce section of
the local Safeway, where a jetlagged Steller sea lion researcher
places it into a cart carrying enough goods to feed two field
biologists over a month of isolation. As the groggy researcher
checks her list twice, the onion is paid for and bagged.
The
onion rides to the airport and is safely whisked to its new
home in the back of a seaplane. It flies out over Stephens
Passage, passes through Tongass National Forest, along Admiralty
Island and to South West Brothers Island. There, the onion
is unpacked into a box that sits under the counter until it
is called upon.
Life
in the box is quiet until the hungry Steller sea lion researchers
decide to prepare a gourmet dinner - then the onion is remembered
and freed. Its innards are consumed but the skins are set
aside in the compost bucket. Fruit peels and coffee grinds
are added, and in a few days the full bucket is taken to the
intertidal zone, where the gulls have learned that the silver
bowl means a guaranteed meal. The outgoing tide returns the
onion skin to the familiar waters it has already navigated
by boat and plane.
Riding
the ebb tide, it escapes the marauding gulls and visits a
few tidepools where scuplins and hermit crabs peck at it along
the way. (It also sees the harbour seals
spying on the researchers' cabin and taking down notes).
Once it moves out into the currents, it passes the days with
the plankton. Almost all sea life starts here, in a microscopic
nursery where baby sand dollars and barnacles bump into each
other. Eventually, the onion settles on the bottom where it
decomposes in peace, releasing precious nutrients to be taken
up by other critters.
A
true West Coast vagabond, our onion has traveled from California
to Alaska. Few of us are so well traveled! My tummy rumbles
as I write this, telling me it must be time for dinner-and
time to release another vegetable into the watery passages
of Frederick Sound, on the final leg of its journey.
Top
Vanishing
Sea Lions?
April
26, 2005
By
Brooke Campbell, Steller Sea Lion Researcher
 |
| A
view of the South West Brothers sea lion haulout, without
its usual inhabitants.
Photo:
Brooke Campbell |
We
have seen no sea lions on the entire island for the past two
weeks. Other than the occasional visiting sea lion on a reconnaissance
mission from Elsewhere, we have seen neither hide nor hair
of our charges.
We
are sea lion researchers attempting to count and study the
behaviour of a conspicuously absent subject; the irony of
this situation is not lost on us. Nevertheless, we trundle
daily to the blind for our Steller Watch shifts in the hopes
that the South West Brothers haulout will once again be the
happening hangout it was just weeks ago.
Despite
the weather's attempts to keep spring at bay (such as snowing
on the first day of spring and then icing up for the subsequent
week), the new shoots and buds that have appeared on the island
over the course of the past month have held up well against
the last vestiges of winter. As a result, we are now enjoying
flowering blueberry and salmonberry all over the island.
The
birds of our Island range from bald eagles to winter wrens,
and are busy building new nests, tidying old ones, soliciting
mates and noisily defending their territories. The seabirds
have also followed suit, with the notable exception of Mathilda,
our lame yet fiercely independent surf scoter (see Jenn's
article below - Ed.). The harbour seals are
still keeping tabs on us and we've had a couple of swim-bys
from Pacific white-sided dolphins and harbour porpoises.
Another
indication that spring is finally here is the new abundance
of moths, spiders, mosquitos, and slugs. The score to date
is Brooke: 1, Mosquitos: 0, but I'm afraid the spiders, who
seem to have a penchant for hanging out in my sleeping bag,
are quickly evening out the score for the biting bugs.
Jenn
leaves in a couple of days and is being replaced by Morgan,
with whom I will be spending a month and a half before I return
home. I have enjoyed getting to know Jenn and I will miss
her lively stories, knitting tips, and impromptu intertidal
invertebrate lessons.
This
is my last "tour of duty". I can't believe how fast
this year has gone by!
Brooke
Campbell
Top
The
Birds of South West Brothers Island
April
19, 2005
By Jennifer Provencher,
Steller Sea Lion Researcher
 |
|
This lone female Surf Scoter with a lop-sided swim was
dubbed 'Matilda' by the researchers.
Photo:
Jennifer Provencher |
My
grandfather loved birds. I remember growing up in Ontario’s
cottage country, watching him sit for hours and stare through
the window overlooking the trees and the lake, diligently
circling every bird he spotted in his plastic-covered Audubon
bird book. Each spring, we set up the bird feeders in view
of the window so grandpa could see them well. I would sit
with him, mini-broom in hand, ready to run to the feeders
and chase away squirrels and chipmunks before they scared
the birds and stole the food.
But
as a little girl I only ever wanted to swim in the lake, and
I often had to be dragged up to the cottage for dinner. Perhaps
Ontario didn’t have the right type of birds to interest
a girl who was half fish. As an adult, however, the seabirds
of the Pacific Coast have suddenly piqued my interest like
no birds before them. While I came to South West Brothers
Island for the sea lions, I am leaving an avid birder.
The Island is a perfect place for bird watching, and in my
considerable free time I have set out to learn the birds of
the area while I am here. Every day I look through the National
Geographic bird book that lives on a shelf at the blind where
we watch the sea lions, and what started out as a small project
has rapidly become an obsession.
I first identified all the birds that swim into Sea Lion Cove.
There are the beautiful Harlequin Ducks, with feathers that
look as if someone painted them each morning. The Red-breasted
Mergansers always come by with their feathered, combed heads
that give them a permanently electrified look. Solitary Arctic
Loons also venture into the cove to fish and seek shelter
on blustery days. Groups of Surfbirds and Black Turnstones
fly around in gangs among the rocky coastline. Black Oystercatchers
call out their laugh-like trills to any that would listen,
and on some days we think we might go insane from their constant
twittering.
Soon I expanded my observations to other parts of the island
and just off its shores. From the beaches at the north end
of the island I have spotted large groups of Surf Scoters
and Marbled Murrelets. The latter is a rare sight along the
B.C. coast, as they are an endangered species, but they are
doing well up here. I once spent over an hour observing and
sketching a Pigeon Guillemot that was halfway between winter
and summer plumage, and did not look at all like the picture
in the book. I quickly learned that books do not often show
all the different ways a bird can look throughout the year
or along its range.
 |
|
These Pigeon Guillemots can be recognized from a distance
by their bouncy landings.
Photo:
Jennifer Provencher |
I
have learned where to find birds in a northerly wind and in
a southeasterly wind. I started to notice certain habits of
the birds, like the Harlequin Ducks who were always in pairs.
I even began to recognize the Pigeon Guillemots by their bouncy,
seemingly uncontrolled landings on the water, and one lone
female Surf Scoter by her lop-sided swimming. One of her legs
seemed to be injured, but she swam and fished like the other
scoters and I named her Matilda. . She frequents the cove
and other beaches, and I swear that she followed us one day
as we went to investigate a sea lion carcass on the haulout.
Surrounded by nature and with a camera at hand, my obsession
with watching the birds has quickly turned into one of trying
to photograph them. My photographs of sea lion brands and
group behaviour, taken during my shifts at the blind, are
always punctuated with pictures of birds. I have taken hundreds
of photos and spent hours bird-watching this winter.
In my free time, I have clamored over endless rocks and trees
in my quest for some of the photographs I have today. I will
not claim that I do it with grace and style; being a field
biologist has nothing to do with grace, you just do what you
must to get the job done. For all the bad photos I have taken,
I have some that I will treasure forever.
Seabirds have captured my attention, and I will continue to
scramble over the shores of the West Coast to catch a glimpse
of the birds that inhabit our waters. On South West Brothers
Island, I have become a little girl again and finally found
the passion my grandfather had had for so many years. The
world is full of all types of people and all types of birds;
perhaps you just have to find the right birds to discover
the ornithologist within. I have finally found my birds.
Jennifer Provencher
Top
Is
It Spring Yet?
March
23, 2005
By
Morgan Davies, Steller Sea Lion Researcher
 |
| Morgan
and his hauled-out research subjects (background).
Photo:
Morgan Davies |
It's
early morning and I'm on duty at the blind, taking the day's
first sea lion observations. It's currently overcast, calm
and raining with a temperature of 5 o C (41 o F). Other than
having little rain during the past month, the weather has
been normal for this time of year. We have really noticed
an increase in daylight throughout February, and have made
good use of it by getting out for beach and forest walks!
I
just finished the day's first behaviour-and-focal scans of
the sea lions on the haulout, and I counted 74 animals with
three pups suckling. I can see two focal animals, H374 and
77F, and I'm trying to get a photo of 77F since we haven't
taken one since the beginning of the month, but a big female
keeps getting in the way - I guess she really wants to be
in the picture!
As
for the bald eagle activity I mentioned in my last update,
we observed another three feeding events around mid-February.
The eagles have exhibited similar behaviour to that observed
in January (flying over the haulout, perching in nearby trees
or on the haulout, and vocalizing) with approximately equal
intensity during the periods before and after the feeding
events. We have determined that two pairs of adults and one
juvenile are living on the island, but it's also possible
that non-resident eagles are flying to the haulout from neighboring
islands.
The
other day, in a bit of ironic payback on behalf of the sea
lions, I unintentionally surprised three eagles as I walked
along the beach toward the blind. I came over a blind ridge
to find the three very large birds (two adults and
a juvenile) drinking from a freshwater pool. It would be an
understatement to say both parties were rather startled! Much
frantic flapping and back-peddling ensued, and then they were
gone. After this experience, I have a much better appreciation
of what the sea lions must see coming down over their heads!
We
currently have Jenn Provencher on the island as an interim
member of Team Steller Watch for February and March. Michelle
was able to lure Jenn away from her job as a public educator
at the Bamfield Marine Science Centre on Vancouver Island,
and we're really glad to have her. We welcome her knowledge
and enthusiasm, and like Brooke, she likes to knit.
Hmmmm. two 'Knitting Queens' together for a month... I smell
a woolly duel!
Besides
the warmer temperatures and longer days, another sign that
we're moving steadily towards spring is the increasing number
of fishing boats we have seen from the beginning of February.
We have watched a few of them through our spotting scope as
they set and haul in their crab traps. It won't be too long
before the tour operators and private boats are cruising around
the surrounding waters to get a look at the sea lions - and,
of course, the beautiful scenery of Frederick Sound.
I'll
write again soon, and thanks again for reading!
Morgan
Davies
 |
| Strange
bedfellows: a bald eagle perches atop the local Steller
sea lion haulout.
Photo:
Morgan Davies |
Top
Who's
Watching Whom?
March
18, 2005
By Jennifer
Provencher, Steller Sea Lion Researcher
 |
| Jenn
at the research blind, enjoying her new backyard and
its local inhabitants, the sea lions.
Photo:
Morgan Davies |
My
name is Jennifer, and I'm the newest member of the Steller
Watch team on South West Brothers Island. I'm here for two
months, giving the others time to process data and attend
to their duties in the city (the bane of all field biologists
is being recalled to town).
Here,
we are surrounded by wildlife in all shapes and forms, and
although we're here to study Steller sea lions, the peering
eyes of the local harbour seals fascinate me. I don't claim
to know harbour seals around the world, but the ones I have
had the opportunity to observe have displayed some unusual
tendencies. In fact, I have a theory about why they stalk
the waterways along our coast: I believe they are the field
biologists of the animal world. Here's why.
Their
Observant Nature
Harbour
seals are present whenever we walk along the beach or wade
in the intertidal area, when we wake and brush our teeth,
and even when we dump our dishwater. Those peering eyes and
bobbing heads follow us everywhere! Even as I write this,
a harbour seal is eyeing the cabin from a safe distance.
Similarly,
field biologists who wish to see all aspects of an animal's
life will follow it to unusual places to find out how the
animal interacts with its environment. We came to South West
Brothers Island to study sea lions at haulouts - the areas
where they come closest to our world - and in turn, the harbour
seals have found our favorite haunts and staked us
out.
The
Art of Blending In
The
harbour seals here seem to go to great lengths to get a closer
look at us. On many occasions, I have been poking around in
tide pools only to realize that several pairs of eyes were
watching me. The seals often approach from behind, their heads
low in the water, creeping up with small movements so as to
not be detected, to get a better view.
Field
biologists everywhere use these same slinky movements; after
all, the purpose of being in the field is to observe animals
in their natural routine. Every field biologist has learned
to creep and crawl through the terrain to get those rare photos
and observations. Universities should offer field classes
in moving silently and precisely - the harbour seals have
obviously taken these classes somewhere.
 |
| Ever
curious, the harbour seals keep a constant eye on the
research team's every move.
Photo:
Jenn Provencher |
Interpreting
Human Movements
It
seems that not only can the harbour seals recognize me, but
they can also tell when I am looking at them, even if I only
turn my head slightly. And when they know that I am
watching, they back away completely. I have played countless
games of peek-a-boo with them as they rise out of the water
to see where I have gone.
Field
biologists are likewise known for their ability to peer through
trees, shrubs, waves and rainstorms to view animals.
I have worked with several field biologists who saw things
that I could not; their awareness of the local environment
and its intricacies simply helped them notice more details.
And
for scientists and seals alike, it's the details that are
important: the small blow on the horizon signaling a distant
whale, broken shells leading to an octopus den, the subtle
contrast in blade shape between two seaweed species, and the
size difference between pups and juvenile sea lions on a haulout.
The harbour seals of South West Brothers Island seem to be
especially inquisitive, with eyes that follow and watch: the
eyes of a field biologist.
So
who's watching whom? We are here to observe Steller Sea Lions,
but we may also be under observation. Perhaps humans are not
the only ones who are curious about other species.
Jennifer
Provencher
 |
| Click
the above image to view Jenn's photo gallery of tidepool
animals.
Photos:
J. Provencher |
Top
An
Eagle-Eye View
March
1 , 2005
By
Morgan Davies, Steller Sea Lion Researcher
 |
| A
series of storms in late December and early January
covered the island with snow and ice.
Photo:
Morgan Davies |
We
have experienced quite a spectrum of Alaskan weather since
I returned to South West Brothers Island in January after
a month in Vancouver. Luckily, the temperature climbed
above freezing on the day of my arrival, but dense fog almost
prevented our floatplane from landing next to the island.
My pilot, Troy, actually turned around at one point because
of the limited visibility, but we decided to make one more
attempt since we were so close to the Island. I'm glad he
did - the fog broke about a minute before we flew over the
island, where Michelle and Brooke were waiting on the beach.
After quickly unloading my bags and helping Brooke
climb aboard (it's her turn for time off) we said our good-byes
and watched the small floatplane disappear into the fog.
A
slow increase in the total number of sea lions at the haulout
over the past few months has provided us with a greater number
and variety of animals for our study. We were excited when
we realized that a large proportion of the recent arrivals
were animals we had observed last summer. Michelle was even
able to identify a known animal from body markings we had
recorded at the beginning of the project, in September 2004.
We
have also been fortunate to witness an interesting and rarely-observed
relationship between the
sea lions at the haulout and some local bald eagles. In January,
we observed an increase in the number of eagles at the haulout,
which currently has a high population of female Steller sea
lions nursing their offspring. At first, the eagles did not
concern the local sea lions, which would vocalize briefly
in the direction of the intruders and then resume their normal
activities. But the eagles became more aggressive as the days
passed, often agitating the sea lions until they vacated the
haulout and took to the water, leaving the eagles with a clear
view of any objects that had been left behind on the rocks.
 |
| A
bald eagle lands on the sea lion haulout as dozens of
spooked Steller sea lions watch from the safety of the
water.
Photo:
Morgan Davies |
We
quickly confirmed the intentions of the eagles once we observed
three adult eagles descending onto the empty haulout to feed
on an aborted sea lion fetus (spontaneous abortion is a natural
but unexplained phenomenon in sea lions). For over an hour,
we watched these impressive birds feeding, while the displaced
sea lions vocalized loudly from several metres away in the
water. The sea lions returned to the haulout about 20 minutes
after the eagles left, but over the next week we repeatedly
observed eagles surveying the haulout and spooking the animals.
From
what I understand, there have been no directed studies on
the relationship between pregnant
sea lions naturally aborting their fetuses and eagles seizing
the opportunity to feed on the high protein food source,
but this behaviour has been repeatedly reported by researchers
in southeast Alaska. I observed this relationship while working
on another study in this area last winter, and so far the
sea lions and eagles on this island are exhibiting similar
behaviour. I'm curious to see how often it occurs and for
how long.
As
far as camp life goes, Michelle and I have had another fun
month together. We've been pleasantly surprised at how quickly
the days are lengthening; when you only have a couple of propane
lamps and a headlamp each, any extra light is noticeable.
The added daylight has lifted our spirits and given us a much
needed energy boost, which I have put to good use exploring
along our beaches and doing a bit of spring maintenance (that's
right, I said spring - we take whatever we can get around
here!). All in all, we've had lots of laughs and many moments
of camaraderie that are so important out here in the field.
Talk
with you next month!
Morgan
Davies
 |
| An
ice-over weather station: another casualty of the January
ice storms.
Photo:
Morgan Davies |
Top
Braving
the Elements
February
11, 2005
By Michelle
Marcotte, Steller Sea Lion Researcher
 |
|
Strong winter winds generated large ocean swells that
swamped the hauled-out sea lions.
Photo:
Morgan Davies |
It's
hard to believe that seven months have passed since we arrived
at South West Brothers Island to begin this project, and it's
amazing how things here have changed in such a short time.
Many scientists only conduct field research during the warmer
summer months, but our year-long project has given us the
advantage of watching the island change with the seasons.
The
other night, Morgan and I were looking at photos we took of
the camp back in July. Not only has the camp changed, but
the island itself has taken on a completely different look.
Our surroundings have gone from a lush rainforest, rich in
colour and thick in vegetation, to a comparatively barren
winter landscape.
Just
as the island has its natural cycles, so too do the lives
of the local sea lions. Recently, we witnessed an important
natural event in sea lion reproduction, which was marked by
the curious arrival of some eagles on the island. The eagles
lurked near the haulout, occasionally landing and causing
the sea lions to stampede into the water, but we soon realized
that the eagles had actually arrived to feed on a miscarried
fetus and placenta from a female sea lion. It was gruesome,
as nature often can be, but fascinating at the same time.
Researchers
aren't sure why or how often spontaneous abortion takes place
among sea lions. Some evidence points to lack of adequate
nutrition in the diet; perhaps some biological 'decision'
is made about whether to nurse the current offspring for another
year or to have another pup and wean the yearling. This is
just another of the mysteries around Steller sea lions that
scientists are working to unravel.
 |
|
A prolonged snowfall produced a foot of soft, powdery
snow. The researchers enjoyed it until it melted and
refroze into an island-wide ice sheet.
Photo:
Brooke Campbell |
We
had some snow over Christmas, but a prolonged snowfall in
January delivered over a foot of sugary-fine snow that carpeted
everything, giving the island a soft, wintry feeling - despite
the -18°C (-1°F) wind chill! A short spell of warmer
weather sparked a brief thaw, but temperatures inevitably
plummeted again, turning the island into a giant sheet of
ice.
The
frozen trees, trails and rocks were manageable (and even fun,
at times), but the danger came when the temperature once again
warmed up - this time accompanied by a ferocious wind. Trees
and branches that had strained under the weight of the snow
and ice were released of their burdens, and they rained down
softball-sized 'ice missiles' all over the island.
We
hunkered down inside our cabin and listened to the snapping
of branches and the noisy barrage of ice on our tin roof.
Every day it seemed new branches and trees had fallen over
from the strain. Fortunately, no one was squashed or injured!
Since then, the weather has been rather mild and pleasant,
and thankfully the ice carnage has ended.
Staying
warm,
Michelle
Marcotte
Top
A
Long, Cold Winter Sets In...
February
3, 2005
By Brooke
Campbell, Steller Sea Lion Researcher
(-2°F, no
wind, snowing in the afternoon)
 |
|
Bundled up and on duty in the blind.
Photo:
Brooke Campbell |
We're
experiencing a cold snap right now, and temperatures are reaching
minus nine degrees Fahrenheit in full sunshine. Needless to
say, the idea of exposing my body to the outside air for a
bath does not appeal in the slightest. You know you've been
in the field too long when a full wipe-down with Wet Wipes
and a hairbrush feels like a trip to the spa!
Until
today, a nasty north wind has blown straight at our little
cabin on the north side of the island. This wind has been
largely responsible for freezing everything that contains
water in the cabin, including us, and has made trips to the
bathroom rather unpleasant. We have taken to sleeping in additional
layers, and we sleep in the next day's work shirts so that
we don't have to give up the body heat in the morning. A hot
bowl of oatmeal is our breakfast staple, and boot skating
around on the iced-up beach in front of the cabin has become
our favourite free-time activity.
Christmas
this year was low-key but pleasant. Family and friends sent
up much-appreciated letters, gifts and treats, and Michelle
and I listened to Christmas carols on the only short-wave
radio station that is consistently clear: a Christian radio
station out of Petersburg. Dinner consisted of stove-top stuffing,
canned yams and corn, instant mashed potatoes, and turkey
sausage. New Year's Eve also came and went quietly, and both
Michelle and I have resolved to seriously cut down our chocolate
consumption.
 |
| Steller
sea lion pups on an icy haul-out. Note the unusually
dark pup in the center of the photo.
Photo:
Brooke Campbell |
|
|
 |
| A
view to the west: more snow and ice.
Photo:
Brooke Campbell |
|
In
three days, I will leave for Vancouver for some time off,
and I am very much looking forward to a hot shower and a cold
beer - although not at the same time, obviously.
Until
next time,
Brooke
Campbell
Thoughts
from the Blind
January
6, 2005
By
Brooke Campbell, Steller Sea Lion Researcher
 |
| A
sub-adult male, or SAM, paddles in the water near the
haul-out.
Photo:
Michelle Marcotte |
It's
a sunny afternoon on South West Brothers Island and I'm on
duty, writing this between sea lion counts behind the blind
that hides us from their view. Today's sunny weather is a
nice break from the usual clouds and rain, and I feel like
a mole unaccustomed to light; I'm squinting through the spotting
scope at the glare of wet sea lions and having a hard time
distinguishing rocks from animals.
The
Alaskan winter has been mild so far - the daytime temperature
today dipped below freezing for the first time since I arrived
in early November - but the constant wind and rain make for
chilly four-hour shifts in the blind. I'm happy to be completely
warm right now, despite 'only' wearing four layers of clothing.
There
are about 250 sea lions at the main haul-out today - an average
number for the past few weeks. Earlier today, Morgan spotted
two branded sea lions that we've never seen before today,
and his photos of them provided a nice change from the 'usual
suspects.'
The
sea lion pups born this summer have grown incredibly since
I was last here in early October. Some of them are already
as big as yearlings! They are entertaining to watch: chomping
on each other with impunity, picking play-fights with larger
juveniles, wrestling with kelp, and suckling greedily from
their mothers.
I
finally saw killer whales, and not just once - on three separate
occasions. Twice, they were cruising past the haul-out for
a snack and once, they were just gliding through Fredrick
Sound, their immense dorsal fins making them look like sailboats
in the distance. I tried to take some pictures, but I was
so excited that I couldn't keep the camera still.
It's
now mid-afternoon and it has started to snow furiously. Most
of the sea lions have taken to the water and are swimming
around in one big, noisy group. There are about 50 stragglers
left on the haul-out, but if it keeps snowing this hard, there
won't be enough light left to do my next count!
Until
next month,
Brooke Campbell
 |
| A
Steller sea lion pup, hauled out on a rock.
Photo:
Michelle Marcotte |
Top
Research
in the Dark: "Squint, refocus, squint, refocus."
January
6, 2005
By
Morgan Davies, Steller Sea Lion Researcher
 |
An
Alaska sunrise, photographed at 7:30 a.m. Work on the
island begins at 8:00 a.m.
Photo:
Morgan Davies |
It's
hard to believe it's January already. Over the past month,we
have counted an average of 200 animals each day at the haul-out.
As usual, the sea lions have been providing us with plenty
of entertainment, especially those unpredictable pups. Lately,
they have been keeping themselves amused by sneaking up and
scaring the resident seabirds from underwater.
The
days are short - the sun currently rises at 8:15 a.m. and
sets at 3:15 p.m. - and every day it gets harder to complete
our 4:00 p.m. counts. We have had enough morning light
to start our counts at 8:00 a.m., but the light fades quickly
at sunset and it's usually dark just after our last count
at 4:00 p.m. We've had to use our super 'observer-vision'
to count through the spotting scope (squint, refocus, squint,
refocus.).
We
have had few problems with our camp, aside from a leaky roof
that I think I have finally fixed (if not, I'm sure I'll know
about it!). The darkness has kept us close to the cabin, where
our trusty propane lanterns provide us with reliable light.
Last night, however, we were lured away from the cabin
and onto the beach to stand in the dark and stare up at the
northern lights. They lit up the sky with their dancing,
and I think we may have seen a slight shade of red colouring
the tips of the mostly-green lights. I have spent many
nights watching northern lights, but I never get tired of
them.
Unfortunately,
our recent visitor, Karen from the Alaska Department of Fish
and Game, had left that day and couldn't enjoy the northern
lights with us. Karen stayed on the island for six
days to sight sea lions that had been branded as part of research
by the Alaska Department of Fish and Game. She brought us
fresh food and we had some great meals, but I think both Brooke
and I were just happy to have a new person to chat with.
From what Karen was saying, the Alaskan government will probably
send someone out again two or three more times before we complete
our field study in July.
I
hope everyone has a safe and happy New Year!
Morgan
Davies
 |
| Photo:
Morgan Davies |
Top
A
Kid In A Northern Candy Store
December
15, 2004
By
Morgan Davies, Steller Sea Lion Researcher
 |
| Morgan
Davies: He's not crazy, he's a sea lion researcher. |
"Let's
see, you want me to live in a 10x12 foot cabin on a small
island in Alaska, with only one other person, for two months
at a time over the course of a year, observing Steller sea
lions? Where do I sign up?"
That's
what I said when Michelle Marcotte invited me to become a
research assistant for her Master's thesis. No, I'm not crazy,
I'm a sea lion researcher, and I'm currently enjoying one
of the most exciting and satisfying experiences of my life
here on South West Brothers Island.
It's
early December and I'm near the end of my second two-month
stay on the island. Despite the progressively shorter and
colder days, our work is going very well. What are we doing
here, you ask? In a nutshell, we are collecting a year's
worth of information on the Steller sea lions at South West
Brothers Island, so that Michelle can try to answer some of
the questions she has posed in her Masters thesis.
A Watchful Eye
Michelle's
project has several parts to it. The main component
of our research involves observing sea lions at a local 'haul-out,'
a place where sea lions literally haul themselves out of the
water onto a familiar piece of land to rest, interact or nurse
their offspring. This research is best carried out from behind
a blind, a hidden spot where we can consistently observe the
sea lions without their knowledge. The blind is approximately
100 metres from the haul-out, so we use a scope to make our
observations.
During
an eight-hour observation period, which is split into two
four-hour shifts, we conduct hourly counts (counting every
animal on the haul-out) and behavioural observations every
half-hour. Behavioural observations require us to scan the
haul-out and classify each sea lion by gender and age (pups
or young of year, juveniles, females, sub-adult males or SAM's,
and large bull males), as well as by behaviour such as suckling,
active or resting.
A
second component of Michelle's study involves two cameras,
mounted in protective cases, which photograph the haul-out
every hour. We compare the photographs to our hourly
counts, in order to evaluate the potential
effectiveness
of these cameras for research in remote
 |
| The
researchers help U.S. federal agencies by reporting
sightings of branded sea lions, like the one pictured
here. |
areas
without observers. A third and final component of the research
has us counting sea lions that have hauled out at different
locations around the island, to try to determine the total
number of animals present.
Because
we are conducting research in Alaska, we sometimes work in
conjunction with several U.S federal agencies. The Alaska
Department of Fish and Game, for example, brands selected
sea lions from known rookeries in southeast Alaska. They then
search for branded animals throughout the year, hoping to
gain valuable information about sea lion movements, age and
gender, animal health and overall population trends.
In cooperation with this research, we conduct 'brand re-sights'
from our blind, recording and photographing branded animals
whenever possible. In this way, we help to gather information
that otherwise might not be collected.
Memorable
Encounter
The
short hike to and from the blind each day can hold a great
deal of variety. I can hear the sea lions well before arriving
at the blind, and I often wonder what they have been up to
overnight. The previous day might have been windy and stormy,
with big swells crashing over the haul-out and washing away
some of the sea lions. Perhaps the younger animals were out
surfing those same swells, and I'll find them sleeping off
the excitement? Every day is different.
Steller
sea lions are skittish by nature, and you never know what
will frighten them. Sometimes a few ravens or an eagle can
spook an animal, which in turn can spark a noisy stampede
into the water. Other times, boats may approach too closely
to take a picture, and the sea lions will loudly indicate
how they feel about the intrusion. After all, weren't zoom
lenses and binoculars invented for a reason?
One
unforgettable disturbance happened on an afternoon in August.
I was in the blind when I suddenly heard the sea lions increase
their vocalizations. I couldn't see what was irritating them,
but they were quickly getting louder. Then, all of a sudden,
an orca surfaced inside the little bay between the blind and
the sea lions-and charged at the haul-out!
"Holy
cow!" I exclaimed (or something to that effect) and stumbled
out of the blind in my rush to photograph the sea lions' primary
predator in action. A pod of four orcas - two females and
two juvenile whales - were churning up the tidal waters, and
the sea lions were making more noise than I had ever heard
them make. This was the one and only time I didn't
see them startle and stampede into the water, as they usually
do when they are spooked.
Click
on an image to enlarge
 |
 |
 |
 |
| A
female orca spyhops to locate potential prey. |
A
mother and calf appear near the haul-out. |
All
eyes are on the orca as it moves in for a closer look. |
One
or more sea lions take to the water as the orca charges. |
The
analogy of a 'kid in a candy store' might describe how excited
and truly amazed I was watching such a rare event. Tail slapping,
spy hopping and repeatedly charging the haul-out, the orcas
terrorized the sea lions for an hour. Eventually, the pod
quietly swam off and the sea lions quickly calmed down, but
I can't say the same for myself!
I'll
sign off here. Thanks for reading, and I'll write again
soon.
Morgan
Davies
Top
Dark
Nights and Dancing Lights
November
28, 2004
By Michelle Marcotte, Steller
Sea Lion Researcher
 |
A
long night sets in as the sun disappears over the coastal
mountains.
Photo:
Morgan Davies |
Another
month has already passed, and I can't believe that November
is almost over.
The weather is colder here than
in Vancouver but is still mild by Alaskan standards. The morning
temperature is usually around 2 degrees Celsius and climbs
to a maximum of about 6 degrees. The snow line is slowly creeping
down the coastal mountains on the horizon, the winds and ocean
swells are getting stronger, and the power of the ocean –
even in our semi-protected area – is quite astounding.
The local Steller sea lions are
cooperating with our research, and data are pouring in. By
now, most of this year's pups have become big and fat, but
there are still a few skinny ones around. One pup died on
shore, but we managed to bundle him up so that biologists
from the Alaska Department of Fish and Game could collect
him. It was sad, but hopefully they will learn a little from
him about Alaska's declining sea lion populations.
About 50 harbour seals currently
live around our island, and we even got a new resident—a
river otter! The variety of birdlife is wonderful, and we
see everything from harlequin ducks, loons, kingfishers, and
cormorants to many species of gulls. We still see humpback
whales once in a while, and orcas occasionally come by to
see if any seals are on the day’s menu.
Our days are getting shorter
and shorter as winter sets in, and the biggest challenge I’m
facing is fighting the lethargy that accompanies extended
periods of darkness. Our propane lamps give off a soft yellow
light and the cabin is warm and cozy, so with a full belly
after dinner it can sometimes be hard to stay awake. We have
taken advantage of the perpetual darkness, however, and on
clear nights we set up the spotting scope to check out Alaska's
night sky. The dancing northern lights – always a brilliant
green – are a frequent highlight of our star parties.
I will be returning to South
West Brothers Island in December after a brief return to Vancouver,
and I'm looking forward to spending the holidays here.
Until next month,
Michelle
Marcotte
Top
An
Alaskan Winter Looms...
October
27, 2004
By Michelle Marcotte, Steller
Sea Lion Researcher
(8
degrees and rainy, with 25 knot winds...)
 |
Michelle
starts her day 's work with a coffee on the beach. |
It’s
been two months since the field component of our year-long
research project began here on South West Brothers Island.
Today is Tuesday, and although
it’s my designated day off, I still had to check in
with our lab in Vancouver by satellite phone as part of our
weekly routine. I just finished telling them about the impending
gale force winds and small craft advisory that has been issued
for the rest of this week. An Alaskan winter is on its way!
Researcher Morgan Davies is scheduled
to arrive tomorrow to relieve Brooke
Campbell, who has been my steady companion for the past
month and is due to return to Vancouver. But as the winter
storms become more frequent and intense, the four-hour voyage
from Juneau to South West Brothers Island on a 32-foot off-loader
named the ‘Karen-Lynn’ is getting increasingly
hazardous. I’ll be surprised if we see them before Sunday.
So, while Brooke prepares for
another week on the island, Morgan will get to relax in Alaska’s
capital city, enjoying his last taste of civilization for
a while!
As temperatures drop and the
weather hammers down on us, I am continuously grateful for
the shelter of our cabin and the research blind from which
we can unobtrusively view the local Steller sea lions. We
spend our days at a local haul-out, which is an area where
sea lions can literally "haul out" of the water
onto dry land. Approximately 50 pups were brought here this
past summer from an offshore rookery (nursery) by their mothers.
 |
| Seals
(seen here) and sea lions often spend their days resting
at 'haul-outs' like this one. |
Data collection
is going well, and the pups are very entertaining to watch.
They spend their days in groups, wrestling and playing in
the shallow water. Nearby kelp and sea stars frequently become
toys for tossing and retrieving – it reminds me of being
a kid at the pool, tossing rings and trying to catch them
underwater before they hit the bottom. Fuelled by the high-energy
milk of their mothers, the pups can afford to burn calories,
while most of the adults sometimes spend whole days sleeping!
The days are getting shorter;
it’s completely dark here by 7:00 p.m., and headlamps
have become a necessity when we get up in the morning, especially
on overcast days. The mornings should become more manageable
once we switch to daylight savings time.
We fill our evenings by playing
cards, listening to CD books, reading, writing and talking.
Camaraderie is essential when you live in an 8x12-foot space,
and it’s great to have positive, friendly teammates.
Brooke recently took up knitting and has become the knitting
master, while I ambitiously brought along an astronomy field
guide. While I’m learning a lot, we haven’t had
many clear nights to allow me to practice my stargazing.
I hope all is well in civilization,
and as a parting thought to those of you reading this from
the comfort of your own home: never take for granted the simple
joy of a hot shower!
Until next month...
Michelle Marcotte
| Michelle's
Quote of the Month |
“Solitude
is a silent storm that breaks down all our dead branches.
Yet it sends our living roots deeper in to the living
heart of the living earth. Man struggles to find life
outside himself, unaware that the life he is seeking
is within him. Nature reaches out to us with welcoming
arms, and bids us enjoy her beauty; but we dread her
silence and rush into the crowded cities, there to
huddle like sheep fleeing from a ferocious wolf.”
-
Kahlil Gibran
|
Brooke’s
Update: I Love My Job!
 |
| Brooke
shows off her new back yard. |
Today
is the last day before I am scheduled to leave South West
Brothers Island, but the Marine Radio says another gale is
coming, so we’ll see.
I am the newest member of the
“Steller Watch” team, having been hired on in
July. This is my first time on South West Brothers Island
and my first time in Alaska. I have been on the Island since
the third of August, and have witnessed the seasons gradually
shift from summer to fall. Leaves are changing colour and
dropping, while ground vegetation is getting sparser by the
day. More rain, stronger winds, cooler temperatures and a
shortening of the daylight hours will soon complete the transition
from fall to winter.
I’m blown away by how beautiful
it is up here. Big Sitka spruce and western hemlock, devil’s
club and blueberries are all around. A quick walk around the
island (anything is quick when you live on two acres of land!)
reveals a multitude of birds, harbour seals, humpbacks, the
occasional orca – and of course, hundreds of Steller
sea lions.
Being this isolated takes some
getting used to, especially since I was born and raised in
Vancouver, BC, but Michelle and Morgan are terrific people
and easy to work with, which has made my time up here nothing
but pleasant.
I love that this is my job! Nature
is my office, and I’m fully enjoying it. Steller sea
lions are fascinating to watch and the scenery is incredible.
I am so thankful for this opportunity.
We’ll see if my tune changes
once winter has arrived!
Brooke Campbell
Top
A
Year in the Life of a Sea Lion
September
7, 2004
By Michelle Marcotte, Steller
sea lion researcher
 |
The
research team uses a satellite phone to check in weekly
with their Vancouver-based headquarters. |
Spending
a whole year on a remote island in Southeast Alaska is not
something many people would consider doing. With a population
of only a few sea birds and 600 Steller sea lions, island
life in Alaska can be quite a challenge.
Three Steller sea lion researchers
- Morgan Davies, Brooke Campbell and I - have taken up this
challenge in the name of science. Our goal is to study a community
of sea lions for an entire year.
In July of this year, Morgan
and I set up a simple field camp on Southwest Brothers Island
consisting of a one-room cabin and a “blind” for
discretely observing the animals. The island is abundant with
plant life and animals, and with no mammals other than the
marine kind, we won’t have to worry about visits from
those infamous Alaskan Brown bears.
There are always two people on
the island at any one time, with an eagerly awaited re-supply
of food each month. The monthly re-supply trip allows one
of the researchers to come back to Vancouver for a month to
enter data and recharge their batteries, while another on
the team is dropped off on the island for two months of sea
lion observations.
Independent Foragers
While we’re on the island,
one of our main goals is to study the relationships between
female Steller sea lions and their pups.
Female Steller sea lions spend
part of their time foraging for food at sea and the rest of
their time nursing their young pups on land. Because of this,
the process of weaning a pup – helping it become fully
independent of its mother’s milk and care – can
be quite long. Over time, the pups take less of their mother’s
milk and learn to catch their own fish for food.
By examining the length of this
weaning period, scientists can obtain information about the
“nutritional stability” of a population of sea
lions. For example, a female who does not get enough food
may not have enough energy to provide milk to her young for
an extended period of time while preparing to give birth again
in the following season. The biological effects of this lack
of food are called nutritional stress.
If
a mother is nutritionally stressed, it may mean a shortened
weaning period for her young. Juveniles who are nutritionally
stressed may have a higher mortality (death) rate –
either directly, from starvation, or indirectly, from
predators
and disease.
Some
of the questions we will be asking during our study include:
-
How
do the activity levels of Steller sea lions change throughout
the year?
-
How
do environmental factors such as wind, rain, and tides
affect the Steller sea lions’ patterns of “hauling
out” of the ocean onto dry land?
- When
do sea lion pups and juveniles wean?
Challenges
Ahead
The summer has brought us plenty
of sunshine and long daylight hours. We have spotted many
“visitors” to our isolated island including
cruise ships, fishing vessels, kayakers and even families
of humpback and orca whales!
But the coming winter season
promises to bring plenty of challenges that accompany living
in a remote area - including wind, rain and long, dark hours.
Stay tuned for monthly updates
from our remote island field camp!
 |
A
rainbow arcs over South West Brothers Island. |
Top
North
Pacific Universities Marine Mammal Research Consortium
conducts research on the relationship between fisheries
and marine mammals in the North Pacific Ocean and the Eastern
Bering Sea.
For
more information, contact
the Consortium's administrative office, located at:
The
University of British Columbia
Room 18, Hut B-3
6248 Biological Sciences Road
Vancouver, B.C. V6T 1Z4
|